Mechanical design; While many men will consider or purchase a new wristwatch based solely on its exterior appearance, the true connoisseur will pay equal attention to its internal mechanisms.
These internal workings are collectively referred to as the movement or caliber of a wristwatch and are the subject of today's article, and also powers its other features known as complications in the trade these would include the calendar chronograph and alternate time zones.
There are two broad categories and three specific types of watch movements. Mechanical and quartz are the two categories, and within the mechanical category, there are two individual types: manual and automatic.
Let's get started on the proper discussion by first discussing the broad category of mechanical watch movements.
The mechanical category simply means that the watch in question is not powered by a battery. All mechanical watches, which include both of the types we're about to discuss, will have the following types of parts.
The crown is the wheel on the side of the watch that is used to set the time. It can also be turned to wind the watch in order for it to run. The main spring provides movement power as well as kinetic energy from winding.
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The crown is transferred to the coil-shaped mainspring, which stores energy by tightening and tightening. A series of small gears transmits the stored energy from the mainspring to the escapement.
The escapement, also known as the escape wheel, is in charge of transferring energy from the mainspring to the balance wheel in evenly distributed amounts.
The balance wheel is the heart of the watch movement, receiving the energy needed to run from the escapement.
The balance wheel beats or oscillates in a circular motion between 5 and 10 times per second, and a watchmaker can make the balance wheel oscillate faster or slower, causing the watch to run faster or slower.
Also worthy of mention are the jewels, which are typically synthetic rubies placed at points of high friction within the movement to reduce wear and improve performance.
Ruby is used because it absorbs heat well and is also extremely hard and thus durable.
Why are mechanical movement watches so sought after by fashionistas?
Simply put, the intricate small parts inside the movements, as well as the craftsmanship that goes into assembling them, make these movements works of art.
Many European-made mechanical movement watches will sell for hundreds of thousands, if not millions, of dollars at auction.
Otherwise, some of that cost is due to the value of the brand name. Aside from artistic considerations, mechanical movement watches have practical benefits as well. For example, with proper care, watches like this can last a lifetime and you won't have to worry about constantly replacing batteries.
Mechanical watch movements, on the other hand, can become dirty and the lubricants inside can dry up, so they should be maintained by disassembling and cleaning them every three to five years or so.
So, with the mechanical movement category broadly defined, we can move on to the specifics of the two types of mechanical movements, beginning with the manual watch movement.
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The oldest type of watch movement, also known as a hand wound movement, dates back to the 16th century. Most manual movements require daily winding in order to keep time accurately.
Some higher-end models can store energy efficiently enough to only require winding every few days. Some watches will include a complication known as a power reserve indicator, which tells the wearer how long they can go before needing to wind the watch again.
Because manual movements are the most traditional type of movement available, men who prefer to wear manual movement watches generally get into the habit of winding them daily, often at a set time, usually before going to bed.
What are important factors to consider when buying a manual movement watch?
First and foremost, you must develop the habit of regularly winding your watch; otherwise, the watch will wind down and will not keep accurate time.
However, if a manual watch is wound too tightly or at an incorrect angle, such as attempting to wind it while it is already on your wrist, this can cause damage to the movement over time.
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The automatic movement, also known as the self-winding movement, debuted in the early twentieth century. An automatic movement harnesses kinetic energy from the natural motion of the wearer's wrist.
In other words, moving your arm around while wearing the watch throughout the day will wind the mainspring.
This is accomplished because an automatic movement contains all of the components we discussed earlier plus an additional component known as the rotor.
The rotor is typically a semicircular metal weight that can swing freely 360 degrees as the wrist moves. The rotor is connected to the mainspring via another series of gears.
The mechanisms of an automatic movement are the same as those of a manual movement, and yes, it can be wound from the crown if desired.
Some considerations for wearing an automatic movement watch begin with the fact that the daily winding ritual is not required.
If you wear the watch frequently and keep your wrist moving naturally, the watch will continue to be wound. On the other hand, if you go a long time without wearing an automatic movement watch, the lack of movement will most likely mean that the watch will run down over time.
Also, automatic movements are typically slightly thicker than manual movements due to the space required for the rotor and additional gears; however, some gentlemen appreciate the extra heft that this adds to the watch.
The last type of movement we'll look at today is the quartz movement, also known as a battery-powered movement. It was introduced to the public in 1969 by the Seiko corporation.
Unlike the mechanical movements we just discussed, the inner workings of a quartz movement are comprised of a variety of components.
To begin, the power source of a quartz movement is a battery, which replaces a mainspring. A watch battery typically lasts one to two years, after which it should be promptly replaced to prevent any leakage of battery acid.
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The integrated circuit then transports the electrical charge from the battery to the quartz crystal and from the crystal to the stepping motor.
The quartz crystal functions similarly to the escapement on a mechanical watch, vibrating when electricity is applied to it, generating voltage.
The stepping motor converts electrical impulses into mechanical power, and the dial train functions similarly to a mechanical movement's dial train.
In other words, here's a quick rundown of how quartz movements work: first, the battery sends electricity to the quartz crystal via the integrated circuit. The electric charge causes the crystal to vibrate at a rate of 32 768 pulses per second.
These pulses are sent through the integrated circuit to the stepping motor, which sends every 32 768th electrical pulse to the dial train, for a total of one pulse per second. Finally, the dial train, as it did with mechanical movements, moves the watch's hands.
What are the advantages of a quartz movement watch over a mechanical movement?
First, because quartz watches use a circuit board rather than many individual parts that can fail, they are the most accurate type of watch movement currently available.
As a result, quartz movements are generally less expensive, which is why you'll find them in a lot of standard watches sold in department stores.
Which watch movement is best for you?
In short, it really depends on what you're looking for if you're a true watch connoisseur who values the tradition and craftsmanship that goes into mechanical watch construction.
Then a manual or automatic movement is probably a good choice for you. Keep in mind, however, that you will probably need to be willing to spend a little more and that you will have to take the extra time to ensure that the watch is wound and running properly.
If you prefer not to deal with these extra factors, are new to the watch collecting hobby, or simply want one watch to use on a regular basis, a quartz movement may be a better option for you.
You don't have to believe that a quartz movement is inferior to a mechanical movement; after all, they are the most accurate type of movement in the long run, and there are still plenty of attractive watch styles that use quartz movements.
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As a side note, if you have an old or broken watch with a mechanical movement, such as an inherited timepiece, you do have options when taking it to a watchmaker. You can try to get the original mechanical movement restored depending on its condition.
You could also have a new mechanical movement installed, or you could go a different route and have the watch retrofitted with a quartz movement, which is available in some cases, pardon the pun.
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